A Spotlight On Spotlights

From spotting navigational aids and hazards to signaling other boats, having a spotlight aboard for nighttime use is crucial. They’re also useful if you want to try your hand at night fishing.

Spotlights can be grouped into two basic categories: fixed mount or portable handheld units. Both types have pros and cons. Let’s put these useful devices center stage and help you select the one that best suits your needs.

Fixed spotlights

Fixed or permanently mounted spotlights provide convenience and instant access when needed. While old-school spotlights were typically operated manually (i.e., via mechanical hand controls), most modern units are remotely operated using either a mounted keypad or wireless remote control and an internal electric motor to provide azimuth (direction) and elevation.

Permanently mounted spotlights can be mounted on a hardtop or forward on a bow railing, deck, or other suitable location. Some units, such as the Golight Stryker GL-3067 ­(larsonelectronics.com), feature a wireless remote that allows you to control the spotlight from anywhere onboard.

Mounting a fixed spotlight as far forward as practical is preferred. However, when selecting a location be sure to consider issues such as backscatter or glare. For example, a hardtop-mounted unit could blind the helmsman by lighting up the bow or foredeck during operation.

Conversely, a unit mounted on the bow railing or pulpit can vibrate excessively while the vessel is underway, making it difficult to aim the light or keep it on target. In such cases, mounting the unit directly to the foredeck is likely a better option. Of course, always consider spray, especially if you boat in saltwater. Your light will probably be designated as sprayproof, maybe even waterproof, but it doesn’t hurt to put it in a relatively protected place if you can.

One way to ferret out any potential problems when selecting a location is to mount the unit temporarily first. This allows you to see how it performs before firing up that drill or hole saw. That’s also the time to look for mounting or installation issues, such as access below for mounting hardware or how you’ll route control and power wires.

Portable spotlights

Portable or handheld spotlights can also be divided into two groups – wired and battery-powered.

Wired units plug into your boat’s 12-volt DC system using a cigarette-lighter receptacle or similar connection. The best ones feature a locking plug, which prevents you from accidentally pulling out the plug during use (something that typically happens at the worst possible moment). While power outlets are normally installed at the helm, additional handy locations include the bow, flying bridge, or even the engine compartment.

Battery-powered spotlights offer the freedom to move about the boat without regard for outlet locations or cord length. The downside is that, unlike wired spotlights (which will have power as long as your batteries are being charged), battery-powered spotlights have a finite amount of operating time.

Regardless of the handheld style you choose, some features are desirable for both:

• Choose a unit that’s waterproof and armorized with rubber to protect against drops and bangs.
• A short visor or protrusion that extends past the lens will reduce glare and help save your night vision.
• Look for a unit with various light intensity settings. Multiple settings allow you to maximize battery life while saving the brightest, most battery-sucking mode for when you need it most.

Other considerations include the type of handle used (a “pistol grip” design is easier to aim and hold), weight (lighter may be more comfortable to use, but heavier typically means a bigger battery and longer operation), and battery type (specifically rechargeable or nonrechargeable batteries). Rechargeable batteries are the hand’s-down winner in most every case. If you choose a nonrechargeable battery-powered spotlight, it goes without saying (but here it is anyway): Keep spare batteries on hand. They’ll always die at the worst possible moment. However, if you choose rechargeable, be sure to keep it charged. In most models, you can’t just plunk another battery in; it needs time to recharge.

Candela and lumens

Candela (which was called “candlepower” until 1948) is a unit of measurement from a time when the candle was the primary source of light. One candela is roughly equal to the light produced by a single candle of specific dimensions.

Lumen, on the other hand, is a measure of the total amount of light produced that is visible to the human eye. The higher the lumen rating, the brighter the light will appear.

Thanks to modern LED technology, using watts as a guide to bright­­ness is no longer relevant because more light output can be achieved with less power consumption.

Lumen and candela both measure light produced, however, they measure different aspects of it. While lumens measure a light’s brightness, it doesn’t account for the spread or divergence of it. Candela is a measurement primarily concerned with the brightness of a focused beam of light. This means you can’t compare lumens to candela when selecting a spotlight, although you can compare lumens with lumens and candela with candela.

Although primarily applicable to flashlights, ANSI FL 1 Standard can also be very helpful when choosing a spotlight. This standard is voluntary, but many light manufacturers follow it. For compliant lights, an icon indicating that the standard has been applied will be printed on the box.

A light receives certain ratings in a given category based on testing and objective standards. The ambiguity of some rather imaginative advertising prose of the past (remember those 60 million candlepower spotlights?) is now theoretically no longer a problem, particularly if you are buying a quality light. There are several categories of the standard, including the capacity to withstand a drop onto a hard surface, run time, and others, but for purposes of judging brightness, many consider the standards relative to candela and lumens to be particularly helpful.

That said, higher lumens or higher candela do not always equate to a better overall spotlight. Everything has trade-offs. If a spotlight is brighter, it also generates a greater amount of heat and uses more power, which (in the case of battery-powered units) reduces battery life.

Bulbs and LEDs

Advances in LED technology have nearly rendered bulbs a moot talking point. LED lights can last for decades, a huge advantage over old-school incandescent bulbs (take that, Mr. Edison!).LEDs are also 80% more efficient, which equates to longer battery life and less heat. Traditional bulbs like xenon or halogen waste a large amount of the energy going to the light, which is lost in the form of heat.

Spotlight use and etiquette

Spotlights can be used as needed to assist with navigation (such as looking for navigational aids or debris in the water), but they should not be simply turned on and left on while operating your vessel at night. This is not only unnecessary but can also ruin your night vision (as well as that of your crew or those on other vessels).

When using your spotlight, be courteous and avoid shining the beam directly at other boaters. Instead, “sweep” other boats and objects, rather than continuously aiming directly at them.

If you absolutely must illuminate another boat, do it in a manner that won’t interfere with the vision of the other skipper. This not only precludes shining your spotlight into the operator’s face, but also on a reflective, light-colored deck or part of the superstructure located in front of the helm, which could reflect toward the helm.