5 Small-Boat Mods Under $100

We all love improving our boats, but even with small boats this can get expensive, fast. Here are five top projects we’ve done that made our little boats a little bit better while costing no more than an even $100 each.

1. Add fishing rod racks or holders

An angler can never have too many fishing rod holders, especially on small boats where rods that get leaned up or laid down are likely to get broken or beat up. A standard plastic three-rod rack with knife/tool/hook holders built into the supports costs under $20, you can opt for an aluminum version and spend $50 or so, or get individual holders for as little as $10 each. Installation requires no more than drilling a few holes (be careful to check behind the mounting surface first to make sure you won’t drill into anything important), adding some sealant, and driving in some stainless steel screws.

2. Convert a fixed pedestal seat into a swivel seat

Fixed pedestals might do the trick when you’re cruising, but once you get where you’re going, there’s a good chance you’d be happier if you could swivel that seat around and face in different directions. Don’t worry: You won’t have to replace that pedestal. Most boat seats and most marine pedestals have a standard base-plate mount with a 5- to 5.25-inch hole pattern. Several companies make seat swivels consisting of two plates with a ball-bearing swivel between them, which cost $30-$60 and feature the exact same hole pattern. All you need to do is remove the seat, add the swivel, and remount the seat on top.

Installation doesn’t take a lot of skill but can be a bit of a chore. First, remove the four bolts that secure the seat to the pedestal, then remove the seat. Mount the swivel on top of the pedestal using four bolts and locking nuts. That’s not so difficult, but the next part can be aggravating: You have to mount the seat on top of the swivel, but there’s very little space between the two plates on the swivel. That means sliding a wrench between them, then turning the bolt with very little maneuvering room while you’re crouched or lying upside-down on the deck. Expect plenty of fumbling, and plan on an hour to spin four measly bolts.

3. Install a helm pad

Having EVA foam decking installed in your boat can cost thousands of dollars, but you can get an antifatigue helm pad for as little as $45. These things work wonders for your back and feet, providing a vibration-dampening cushion to stand on or rest your feet while cruising. They look great, and installation is only a matter of cleaning and prepping the surface prior to peeling off the backing and sticking it in place. Inexpensive helm pads are usually on the thin side (expect to see 10- to 12 mm, though some are as skinny as 5 mm), and thicker foam underfoot translates to better cushioning. Pads that are 20 mm or thicker will make most boaters happier with the end result, and they cost under $100, though some do bust our budget, so shop carefully. If you don’t mind a little bit of cutting and pasting, you can buy sticky-backed foam in rolls and cut larger pad sizes to outfit the entire helm area.

4. Dress up the boat with vinyl decals

This won’t help your boat go faster or work better, but it sure can make it look a whole lot sharper. Just for fun, visit BoatUS.com/Graphics and check out the many available decal designs. You’ll find cool images of everything from paw prints to pelicans, in sizes from 4- to 11 inches in a rainbow of color choices. Most are priced between $10 and $20, installation is simple and guaranteed, and all graphics are made in BoatU.S.’s Virginia headquarters.

5. Add a float switch to your bilge pump

Why would a boatbuilder mount a bilge pump with an on/off switch but no automatic float switch? To save a few bucks … and that’s a shame, because a basic float switch costs all of $20 and doesn’t take much time to install. These days it’s exceptionally rare to see a new boat sold with a pump and no auto switch. But if your boat is older or if a previous owner installed the pump, you may encounter this situation.

Just how you’ll add the float switch depends to some degree on the nature of your boat’s bilge, because the float switch does need to be hard-mounted, and you certainly don’t want to drill through the bottom of the boat or into the transom core. Many small boats will have a dedicated mounting block laminated into the lowest point in the bilge for just this purpose. If yours doesn’t, you may want to add an epoxy-sealed wood block or mounting plate made of polyboard or similar material. Thoroughly clean the surface, check the materials for bonding compatibility, and be sure to allow sufficient bonding time according to manufacturer instructions. The switch should be installed facing aft (not across the beam) in an area where its motion won’t be impeded by hoses, wires, or other obstructions.

Once the switch is in place, wire it into the bilge pump and the battery. Automatic bilge pump switches should be wired directly to the battery so they always have power. Always use butt connectors with heat-shrink tubing to make electrical connections because the wires will be living in a moist environment. Use the wiring diagram provided with the switch or pump (most modern pumps have a third wire dedicated to a float switch, but in some cases you may need to splice into a wire). Note that there’s also some possibility you’ll discover you have a three-position switch at the helm with “auto” as one of the positions but no automatic float switch installed – a situation we’d call criminal. Take the time to closely inspect your wiring and components and make sure they work properly. However, if the system was installed with such disregard in the first place, replacing it entirely might be the safest move.

Who says you have to spend big bucks to make your boat better? Any or all of these simple, inexpensive modifications will do the trick – and leave your hard-earned money in the bank, where it belongs.